How to Make a Reading Garden  

 

Things to consider before you start:

 

•          Who will use the garden when it is finished? For example, is it just for children (what age?) or for a community with wider-ranging needs?
•          What are the relevant abilities of the volunteers? For example, landscaping, design, plant knowledge.
•          What are the dimensions of the available space?
•          Is there any sponsorship available? For example funding, equipment, transport, materials, plants, skilled labour.
•          Site assessment. What is in the space at the moment? Does it need clearing before the garden can be built? Does it have plants, fences or paving, etc. that can be used in the creation of the reading garden? If you plan to dig down, find out if there are any services below ground (for example, gas or water) that need to be avoided.
•          What resources are available? For example books (for information about plants, layout and design ideas), plants, garden features and hard landscaping materials. Local libraries, garden centres and DIY outlets are good sources of ideas.
•          Access. How will materials and equipment be brought in to the garden? Where are the access points and do they have width or height restrictions?
•          Maintenance. What resources are in place to maintain the garden after it has been built? Newly planted shrubs and trees will need watering in their first season, whereas established shrubs and trees need less maintenance. Mulch applied to planted areas will reduce the need to weed. Grass needs regular mowing whereas hard-standing and structures are generally low maintenance.
•          Health and safety. Consider health and safety issues both when building and using the garden. For example, in the finished garden:
•        Decking can get slippery when wet and covered with algae.
•        Avoid sharp corners on seating, walls, etc.
•        Changes in level can be a trip hazard. See also Design/Layout, Accessibility below.
•        If there is an area where children might fall, give a soft landing, e.g. grass, woodchip or gravel, rather than paving. Further information is available from The Royal Society for the Prevention of Accidents (http://www.rospa.com/LeisureSafety/AdviceAndInformation/Default.aspx).
•        Avoid thorny plants adjacent to paths, seating, etc.
•        Avoid planting poisonous plants. See www.rhs.org.uk/research/documents/c_and_e_harmful.pdf  for more information.
•        Keep tools and chemicals out of reach of children.
•        Avoid putting a pond in a garden that young children will use.

 

 

Design/Layout

 

•         Before deciding on the layout, talk to the people you are creating the garden for or with. Find out how the space will be used and what users want from the garden. If they are involved at this stage they are more likely to use it when it is built.
•         List the pluses (for example, good views, light, existing planting and other features such as fencing, paving, seating, shelter that could be used in the reading garden) and minuses (ugly views, overlooked, traffic noise, lack of light, lack of soil, small space) of the plot.
•         Approach the design/layout of the outdoor space like you would decorating your house. Match the paint to other features and pull the whole look together as harmoniously as possible. Apply the same principles to the garden.
•         Accessibility. Making your space accessible will benefit all your users, including those with disabilities. This shouldn't be too tricky to do, and will be really appreciated. Part III of the Disability Discrimination Act 1995 (DDA) states that service providers have a duty to make ‘reasonable adjustments’ in relation to the physical features of their premises to overcome physical barriers to access. What this means in practice is avoiding the use of steps, ensuring that access points are wide enough to accommodate wheelchairs and that signs are clear. Further information is available from the Equality and Human Rights Commission (www.equalityhumanrights.com/en/publicationsandresources/disability).
•         Keep the layout and planting simple. Limit the materials used in the garden and, if possible, match them to the surrounding area and buildings.
•         Include a sign in the garden to tell users what its intended use is.
•         Create views across the garden towards an object or plant (e.g. a seat or a mural). This keeps the attention of people in the garden inside the space.
•         If there is enough space include somewhere to hide (for example, a secret reading corner), somewhere to explore (for example, a path through dense planting) and somewhere to play (see also Things to consider before you start, Health and Safety).
•         Wildlife fascinates children. Put a birdfeeder in the garden, leave a pile of logs to encourage beetles, and put some wildlife friendly plants to encourage butterflies and birds (see Plant Suggestions, Plants for wildlife for suggestions).
•         Think about the effect colour has on how people feel. For example, grey, white and green is a restful combination of colours, but orange, red and green is vibrant and stimulating.
•         Subdivide the plot. Demarcate areas by using different coloured paving or paving in a different direction. Low, wide walls are also good for this purpose and can also be used for seating.
•         Ground treatments: grass is versatile and looks good but may not be suitable in very shady spots or where there is likely to be lots of wear and tear. There is also the question of maintenance. Gravel with planting is a good alternative but it needs maintenance (weeding, topping up of gravel) and can be messy – it moves around, gets trapped in shoes, etc. If an area is all paved, think about dividing it up with pockets of low planting to define an area or to create a grid pattern. 

 

 

How to deal with problems  

 

•         The site is overlooked. Use plants to screen (wholly or partially) an eyesore. If there are tall buildings around, there may be a need to provide screening from above for privacy – use climbers trained over a pergola (see Plant Suggestions, Plants for screening below for examples of suitable plants) or an awning or umbrella. Make sure that awnings and umbrellas are secure in case of high winds.
•         There is no soil or the soil is poor. Build raised beds with an irrigation system and pick drought tolerant plants, for example, those with narrow, grey or hairy leaves. If the ground is full of rubble with little soil, more will need to be provided for plants to survive.
•         The light is poor. If there is a lack of light, use light, reflective wall finishes to maximise the light available. Also pale coloured, smooth-textured paving and light-coloured, shade-tolerant plants. White flowers are particularly effective in poor light conditions. See Plant Suggestions, Plants for shade.
•         The garden is next to a busy road or has another source of noise pollution. The noise cannot be cut out but focussing the attention into the garden will make the noise outside seem less important. Blocking out the traffic from view psychologically reduces the noise. Also, add distractions in the garden like bamboo that moves and makes a rustling noise in the wind, wind chimes, etc. Evergreen plants are effective at providing a screen from traffic but add in some variegated plants to make it less sombre. See Plant Suggestions, Plants for screening and Plants for polluted areas.
•         Security is a problem. Plant>spiky hedges at the boundaries (but not next to seating areas). Use large, heavy planters that are too heavy to carry, or bolt them to the ground through one of the planting holes.
•         The site is very small. Keep the layout and planting simple. Make a small garden seem larger by dividing the space into different areas. Use the vertical space by planting climbers. Furniture on wheels (or otherwise moveable) will make the space more flexible but increases the risk of theft if security is a problem. Seats with storage beneath can be used to store materials.
•         The garden is currently covered in concrete. If you are ripping up concrete, you will need to add fresh soil to whatever is underneath. Alternatively, use concrete as a base for pots, put decking on top or build raised beds. Containers are flexible and can easily be moved. There is a wide variety available to buy, or it is easy to improvise and make your own – for example, use old sinks or dustbins – but remember that they need watering. Bigger pots need less frequent watering.
•         There is an ugly wall or feature in the space available. Grow a self-clinging climber up it (see Plant Suggestions, Plants for screening), cover it with a screen (e.g. heather, willow), paint it a solid colour, or with a mural – an ideal opportunity to get children involved. You could use letters of the alphabet, words, characters from books, etc.
•         The site is exposed.>Create a shelter belt of planting, ensuring that you pick plants that are tolerant of exposure (see Plant Suggestions, Plants for exposed areas below)

 

Planting

 

•         Before choosing new plants, assess any existing plants in the space. First check their condition. If they are diseased or otherwise very unhealthy it may not be worth saving them. However, wherever possible, incorporate existing plants into the garden, pruning where necessary to control vigour. This will save time and money and give the garden an instant feeling of maturity. Except for established trees and mature shrubs, existing plants can easily be moved.
•         Choosing new plants
•        Select plants to suit the conditions. Look at what grows well in the area. Ask staff at local garden centres for advice – they should know what grows well locally. Consider also the aspect (sun or shade), soil type and space available in the garden. Note the mature height and spread of plants (usually given on the plant label) and take into consideration when planting – a very common error is to position plants too close to each other when they are small. They will quickly outgrow the space given and either fail to thrive or become a maintenance problem, requiring regular pruning.
•        Keep the plant list short for a more unified look.
•        Consider the ongoing maintenance of plants. Shrubs will generally be lower maintenance than perennials (see also Topiary below). A tree will be low maintenance but not if it will outgrow the space available.
•        Trees are a great asset to any garden space. They provide vertical interest, screening, a feeling of maturity, and a focal point. Popular choices are crab apples, cherries or birch, but, if planting a new tree, be careful to choose a suitable tree for the space available.
•        Climbers are good space savers in small areas. See Plant Suggestions, Plants for screening for examples.
•        Use a good proportion of evergreens for year-round interest and structure. Don’t over-use dark evergreens though as these can easily overpower a small space.
•        Topiary is good fun and attractive but be aware of ongoing maintenance required to keep the desired shape. Buxus sempervirens (common box) is a good choice for topiary.
•        Put scented plants next to paths or seating so that their scent can be better enjoyed.
•        Avoid planting poisonous plants. See www.rhs.org.uk/research/documents/c_and_e_harmful.pdf for more information. 

 

Plant Suggestions>

 

These lists are by no means exhaustive but give some ideas to get started. Check out your local garden centre or reference books to see what else is available.

 

Plants for screening

 

-        Parthenocissus quinquefolia (Virginia creeper), P.  tricuspidata (Boston ivy). Self-clinging climber that will climb and screen fences and walls. Deciduous, with fantastic autumn colour.

-        Hedera helix (ivy). Self-clinging climber. Much maligned but great at covering unsightly walls in shade. Use a variegated cultivar in dark corners to add light.

-        Hydrangea anomala subsp. petiolaris (climbing hydrangea). Deciduous, self-clinging climber. Quite slow growing, white flowers in spring.

-        Garrya eliptica (silk tassel bush). Wall shrub, will grow on north-facing walls. Long catkins in winter.

-        Humulus lupulus (golden hop). Fast growing, perennial (i.e. dies back each winter) twining climber. Good for growing up trellis or over a pergola.

-        Jasminum officinale (common jasmine). Twining, deciduous climber with scented white flowers in summer. Prefers a sunny position. Good for growing up trellis or over a pergola.

-        Trachelospermum jasminoides (star jasmine). Evergreen, twining climber with scented white flowers in summer. Slow growing, prefers a sunny position. Good for growing up trellis or over a pergola.

-        Clematis. Twining climber. Good for growing up trellis or over a pergola. Grow in sun or partial shade. There are many different varieties to choose from. How about C. armandii (evergreen with white scented flowers in spring.

-        Lonicera periclymenum (honeysuckle). Deciduous, twining climber with scented white, yellow and red flowers in summer.

 

Plants for shade

 

-        Bamboo, many varieties. These make a lovely rustling sound in the wind but be careful because some varieties can be invasive

-        Fatsia japonica. Evergreen shrub with large, divided leaves. Good for creating a jungly effect. Grows up to 4m tall but can be cut back to required size.

-        Prunus laurocerasus (cherry laurel). Evergreen shrub with glossy green leaves. Good for hedging.

-        Aucuba japonica (spotted laurel). Evergreen shrub with glossy leaves. Variegated and ‘spotted’ leaf varieties commonly available.

-        Camellia. Evergreen shrub or small tree with pink, white or red flowers in winter/spring. Needs acid soil and shade from early morning sun.

-        Euonymus fortunei. Evergreen shrub with many variegated varieties available.

-        Pachysandra terminalis. Evergreen ground cover.

-        Elaeagnus x ebbingei. Evergreen shrub with highly scented but insignificant flowers.

-        Griselinia littoralis. Evergreen shrub with glossy green leaves.

-        Epimedium. Perennial, mostly evergreen, that grows well in dry shade. Flowers in winter.

-        Geranium phaeum. Perennial with purple flowers in spring. Will flower a second time if cut back following flowering.

-        Luzula nivea (snowy woodrush). An evergreen grass.

-        Astrantia major. Perennial with white, pink or red pin cushion flowers in summer.

-        Hedera helix (ivy). See Plants for screening above.

-        Ferns. Many different varieties available. Most prefer moist shade but some (e.g. Asplenium scolopendrium (hart’s tongue fern)) are okay with dry shade.

-        Impatiens walleriana (busy lizzie). Good in shade for seasonal colour. Will need to be replaced every year.

 

Plants for exposed areas (high wind and sun exposure)

 

-        Phormium tenax (New Zealand flax). Evergreen, clump-forming perennial with long, sword-shaped leaves.

-        Choisya ternata (Mexican orange blossom). Evergreen shrub with fragrant white flowers in spring.

-        Aucuba japonica. See Plants for shade above.

-        Pittosporum tenuifolium. Evergreen shrub with many different forms available. Fragrant but insignificant flowers in spring.

-        Osmanthus delavayi. Evergreen shrub with fragrant white flowers in spring.

-        Elaeagnus x ebbingei. See Plants for shade above.

-        Bamboo. Will not tolerate very high wind. See also Plants for shade above.

-        Griselinia littoralis. See Plants for shade above.

-        Garrya eliptica. See Plants for screening above.

-        Viburnum tinus. Evergreen shrub with white flowers in winter.

-        Escallonia. Evergreen shrub with white, pink or red flowers in summer.

-        Euonymus fortunei. See Plants for shade above.

-        Fatsia japonica. See Plants for shade above.

-        Grasses. Many varieties available.

 

Plants for polluted areas

 

Look at what the local council is using in car parks or on roundabouts – the chances are it will thrive in your garden. Give the plants good soil to give them more chance of success. Avoid hairy leaved plants and choose plants that lose their leaves naturally so that the pollution is lost as leaves fall. For example:

-        Weigela florida. Deciduous shrub with pink flowers in late spring.

-        Buddleja davidii. Easy to grow deciduous shrub with purple flowers in summer. Cut back to permanent framework in early spring each year to control size.

-        Amelanchier lamarckii. Deciduous shrub or small tree with white flowers in spring. Good autumn colour.

-        Forsythia x intermedia. Deciduous shrub with yellow flowers in early spring.

-        Ribes sanguineum (flowering currant). Deciduous shrub with pink flowers in spring.

-        Syringa vulgaris (lilac). Deciduous shrub with fragrant lilac flowers in spring.

 

Plants with thick, waxy leaves are also good at dealing with pollution. For example:

-        Aucuba japonica. See Plants for shade above.

-        Mahonia x media. Evergreen shrub with spiky leaves and fragrant yellow flowers in winter.

-        Olearia (daisy bush). Evergreen shrub with white flowers in summer.

-        Camellia. See Plants for shade above

-        Buxus sempervirens (common box). Evergreen shrub. Good for topiary and low hedges

-        Prunus laurocerasus (cherry laurel). See Plants for shade above

 

Perennials that cope with pollution:

-        Geraniums, many varieties available. Perennial with white, blue, pink or purple flowers.

-        Solidago (golden rod). Perennial with yellow flowers in late summer

-        Liatris spicata. Perennial with purple flower spikes in autumn.

-        Aster. Perennial with pink or purple flowers in autumn.

-        Penstemon. Perennial that flowers from summer to autumn. Available in many different flower colours.

-        Crocosmia (montbretia). Perennial with lance-shaped leaves and yellow, orange or red flowers in late summer.

-        Anemone x hybrida (Japanese anemone). Perennial with white or pink flowers in autumn.

-        Lychnis coronaria (rose campion). Perennial with bright pink flowers in summer over a long period.

 

Plants for wildlife

 

-         Buddleja davidii (butterfly bush). Attractive to butterflies. See also Plants for polluted areas above.

-         Teasel. A native biennial (dies after it has flowered but self seeds readily) that is attractive to birds. Mauve flowers in early summer followed by attractive flower heads.

-         Sedum spectabile (ice plant). Perennial that attracts hoverflies and lacewings. Pink/red flowers in late summer. Flower heads are attractive in winter.

-         Lavandula angustifolia (lavender). Scented shrub with purple flowers in summer that attracts bees. Don’t plant next to the seating area as bees will be an unpleasant distraction to the children here.

 

And Finally…Take photographs!

 

Don't forget to photograph your space before, during and after your overhaul so that you can really appreciate the results of your hard work. Why not keep recording the space as the garden matures, too?